Humanality

TONSAI, Thailand // We had three major goals of coming to Railay. First, I wanted to do the first pitch of Lord of the Thais. Second, Jenny wanted to do her first 5.9 climb on lead. Finally, I wanted to push my climbing more than ever, to see what grades I could do if I trained for a few weeks straight.

Climbing is something that we have come to really enjoy over the past 8 years. It combines all aspects of mental focus // puzzle solving, emotional confidence, and staying calm. Additionally it contains physical aspects // strength, grip ability, and endurance. 

The last few days we met many people in the climbing community here in Tonsai who are incredible climbers, much better and stronger than us. Just being around them, and watching them push each other to their best has been contagious. 

There is a well known route on Tonsai beach called Humanality. It is a 5.10c / 6b+ multipitch route. This means that after you climb, you do not get lowered to the ground. Instead, you continue upwards to another anchor ledge. From here you and your partner continue up higher and higher until you reach the top and then rappel down. Humanality I never even considered trying, as I had determined it to be way beyond my comfort level and ability. However, I felt strong the last few days completing two 6b routes on lead, and more importantly, mentally confident in myself. One of the other Americans that I had been climbing with wanted to try it. After a full rest day we met at 6am and made a plan for how we would accomplish this. When morning arrived we got on the wall as Jenny watched from the breakfast restaurant below wth other climbers helping in our communication and taking the following notes.

• 5:45 wake up
• 6:00 leave room
• 6:27 start approach pitch but monkeys at anchor ledge, delay climbing
• 7:02 Somil leads start of approach pitch 
• 7:30 Adam makes it to approach anchor, both at official beginning of climb
• 7:32 Somil leads start of pitch 1
• 7:51 Adam makes it to first anchor, both at top of pitch 1
• 7:59 Somil starts lead of pitch 2
• 8:30 Adam makes it to second anchor, both at top of pitch 2
• 8:38 Somil starts lead of pitch 3
• 9:26 Adam makes it to third anchor, both at top of pitch 3
• 9:45 Somil rappels from top
• 9:54 Adam rappels from top
• 10:26 back on the ground safely

// special thanks to Somil from Los Angeles who led this climb with me //

Climb On

TONSAI, Thailand // We probably could be traveling a lot lighter, but our backpacks have included lots of climbing gear. If we would have thrown all our climbing stuff in the trash at the end of 2 weeks, we would have still gotten our moneys worth by bringing it all. Renting new equipment everyday is a pain, and with our own stuff we have the added benefit of knowing that the gear is safe and in great condition, especially when you trust your life with it. We intend to use everything again when we enter Laos in a few weeks to climb. We arrived in southern Thailand with the following equipment:

• 60 meter 10.2 rope
• 2 pairs of climbing shoes
• 2 climbing harnesses 
• 12 quickdraws
• 6 locking caribiners
• 4 bail biners
• 3 nylon slings
• 1 Grigri autolock device
• 2 ATC's
• 2 prusik cords
• 1 chalk bag

We started slow and eventually built up to more difficult climbs. This is the list of climbs on Railay / Tonsai we completed with their locations and difficulty levels:

• Chock Dee, Diamond Cave, 5 // 5.8
• Name Unknown, Diamond Cave, 5 // 5.8
• Mot Deang, Diamond Cave, 5 // 5.8
• Shadow Show, Muai Thai Wall, 5 // 5.8
• Back to Mani, Phra-Nang Beach, 5 // 5.8
• Pra-Nang Princess, Phra-Nang Beach, 5 // 5.8
• Money Maker, Phra-Nang Beach, 6a+ // 5.10a
• I Don't Know, Wee's Present Wall, 6a // 5.9
• A Man Can Tell 1000 Lies, Wee's Present Wall, 6a // 5.9
• Lord of the Thais, Pitch 1, Thaiwand Wall, 6a+ // 5.10a
• The Groove Tube, Fire Wall, 6a // 5.9
• I Speak No England, Tonsai, 6b // 5.10b
• Cowabungalow, Tonsai, 6b // 5.10b
• Stalagasaurus, Tonsai, 6c // 5.10c
• Humanaility, Pitch 1, Pitch 2, Pitch 3, Tonsai, 6b+ // 5.10c
• Big Wave, Pitch 1, Monkey World, 6a+ // 5.10a
• Rod Yaak Difficult to Pass, Tonsai, 6b // 5.10b

The Golden Hour

RAILAY, Thailand // In photography the "Golden Hour" is the moment when all photographs dance in magical sunlight. Perhaps that is why I chose this time everyday to get my Thai massage. A professional massage from a legitimately certified masseuse in Thailand is about 550 Baht // 15 USD for an hour. I purposely didn’t get massages my last year in NYC in order save up so that I could splurge on massages in Thailand. This is Ati, she has been my Thai massage therapist for over a week. She is strong and has magical hands. 

Before Thailand I had zero experience with Thai massage but I am a true believer now. The traditional Thai massage is more than just physical, but works to create energy balance between mind and body. The benefits include improved circulation, release of muscle tension, deep relaxation, pain relief, improved neurological functions, blockage release, stimulating of internal organs, increased mobility and flexibility, as well as stress relief. It feels like intense stretching. You remain fully clothed and they use no oils. They apply deep pressure for 3 seconds and then release. After just 10 days I feel like I have grown an inch in height due to improved posture and muscle tension relief. Even after 10 hours of massage Ati is still working to release tension in my shoulders and hip flexors from years of sitting at a desk for 10 hours a day. 

Everyday just as the golden hour begins to set in, I climb the steps to her second floor studio that overlooks the beach and watch the sun set out the open windows. There is always a constant sea breeze to cool me off, and whenever I don’t think I can handle the pressure, I focus on my breath and the sun and I survive. I live for my daily massage, my own personal golden hour. It’s also the perfect activity for the end of a long day of rock climbing.

Lord of the Thais

RAILAY, Thailand // At my former office in New York City, the background of my computer for the past 3 years has been a photo from the top of the Thaiwand wall in Railay. The photo is from a climb called "Lord of the Thais". It is known as one of the most popular sport routes in Thailand, as well as the world. It has been one of my goals for years, as well as one of my New Years Resolutions, to do the first pitch of this route. 

The difficulty grade of the first pitch is right within the realm of my ability. Additionally, every piece of gear I brought on this trip is needed for this route. It is about 30 meters high and takes 12 quickdraws. 

After a rough start on the first day, we spent a few days climbing routes that we were pretty certain we could both do. These almost acted as training days for us, as well as having fun and the satisfaction of completing a route. We were in the shade of a forest at a wall called Wee's Present Wall, with lots of other climbers from around the world. The camaraderie was fun, and the audience gave us extra motivation to climb harder and do slightly more difficult routes. 

At about 4 o'clock we decided to head to the Thaiwand wall since we were only about a 10 minute walk away. The sun was going down and setting in about 2 hours. I looked at Jenny and told her that I was ready to try the first pitch of Lord of the Thais. 

I got on the wall, and after about the fifth bolt I was so focused and caught in the moment. Breathing and concentrating is so important in climbing. At one point I looked down and almost freaked myself out. Just because of this mental insecurity, it caused me to grip the rock so tight that I almost lost all strength and pumped myself out. I found rest positions many times, and in the end, made it to the anchor without taking a fall. Either the climb was easier than I thought it would be, or I was just much more "in the zone" today. After I tied myself safely through the anchor, I looked down and took in the incredible view of the beach, longtail boats, and setting sun.

The exposure is amazing, and the view was the same as the one I had viewed on my computer screen for so many years. There was so much hype inside my mind about this climb, and the crazy part is that it actually lived up to the expectations. The climb was so fun, and it felt great to accomplish one of my long term goals, even after the rough adversity of climbing the first day. After the rope was threaded through the anchor, Jenny got a chance to top rope the route and finished the climb as well. This route was another huge boost of confidence for us, and I'm hoping to try harder grade climbing in Tonsai in a few days. 

First Aid Kit

TONSAI, Thailand // At the end of 2 weeks of rock climbing in Thailand, I have sustained several injuries. The ironic part is that none of them are related to climbing at all. 

Injury 1 // Huge cut on shin // I woke up in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom and hit my chin on the pointy side of the bed, sustaining a huge massive cut to the front of my leg.

Injury 2 // Horribly stubbed toe // I was walking on the beach observing the beautiful scenery and walked right into a large rock that had washed ashore during low tide. My toe has had about 3 bandaids on it for the past few days. 

Injury 3 // Burn to roof of mouth // Right on the beach next to the climbs of Tonsai beach there is a little restaurant that has curry bowls for 90 baht. This is about $2.57 in US dollars and the green curry with chicken is amazing. I would usually eat these for lunch and dinner numerous days in a row. After skipping lunch one day, I arrived at 3 o'clock so hungry from climbing and in 100 + degree weather started eating this hot and spicy green curry bowl. A scalding hot piece of eggplant hit my mouth but I was too hungry, and the curry was too good to stop eating. The next few days the roof of my mouth was in pain with everything I ate.

Injury 4 // Food poisoning // We went out to get mango fruit shakes one night and when we got back to the room Jenny was unable to keep anything down. I had a fever and woke up all sweaty but was fine in the morning. Jenny had horrible stomach cramps and fevers for the next 36 hours and spent it mostly in the air conditioned room in bed. She ate ritz crackers and water for the next two days. We found out a few days later that several people on the island had the same symptoms on the same exact days. 

Other than this, we have a few other minor cuts and bruises on our hands from climbing but no other major injuries. We haven't touched the first aid kit yet, and are very grateful for this. We met a climber who sprained their ankle on the second day and unable to climb for the entire 2 week trip they were here. This serves as a reminder to make us appreciate all the days of good health we have had while in Thailand so far.  

Railay Lagoon Hike

RAILAY, Thailand // "Why are the hardest places to reach always the best?" This is what Jenny said to me after we made it to the lagoon. This was probably the most difficult short hike I have ever done. It only took about 45 minutes, but hanging from a muddy rope upside down over a ledge on three separate parts, made this trail borderline sketchy. In the end there was a quiet lagoon in the middle of the jungle, where we each did our own barbaric yawp (from Dead Poets Society // Walt Whitman). Had this lagoon just been on the side of the walkway in town, it would not have been that great. The fact that the only way to see this amazing part of nature was to do the difficult hike, made this area more special to us.

On the way back we ran into a Thai family going to the lagoon. They needed to use the rope to get down and we needed it to get back up. They didn’t know English and we don’t know Thai, but we were still able to communicate via body language which we found interesting. Using hand gestures and smiles we both past each other safely on the steep incline into the valley. 

Our days have consisted of // activity in the morning from 7am to 10, rest and eat in the afternoon from 10 to 1pm, activity in the evening from 1 to 5pm, then sunset and dinner from 5 to 7pm. This town tends to stay up late, so the morning climbing or hiking we do usually is completely to ourselves.  We are looking forward to exploring and climbing as much as we can on Railay before moving over to Tonsai in the next few days.

First Climbing of Thailand

RAILAY, Thailand // It was our first day climbing today and I could not contain my excitement. We had all our own gear, just bought the most recent guidebook, and scouted out all of the walls on Railay for the past day and a half. We started on Diamond Cave at 7am, before the heat, and before all of the guides arrive with the new climbers. We did 3 easy warm up routes testing all our gear and just getting back into the feel for climbing.

We climbed a lot on our road trip in the United States // Santa Barbara, Holcomb Valley, Taos, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, but not at all in Hawaii. The past month in Hawaii we managed to go for runs almost every morning and do a lifting session 3 times a week, but climbing muscles are different. They are hard to build up, and once you stop for a while, you lose progress fast. I realized this by about the 4th climb of the day. By climb number 5 I kept falling on one spot. Why did I decide to do such a difficult route the first day? I have no idea, but I let the excitement get the best of me. I ended the day with 2 deep blisters on the middle and ring finger of my left hand, as well as a nice cut on my left knee.

I traveled with a 60 meter rope and a full sport rack of climbing gear halfway around the world to get beat up on beginner level climbs. I was so upset.

The following day we rested, to heal mentally (for me) and physically. We came back and I was much more focused. I taped up my wounds and was able to do 3 climbs, graded in my ability level, and didn't push any further. The final climb was challenging, but I led it without a problem and Jenny was able to do the whole climb on top rope easily as well. This was a huge boost of confidence for us.

My goal is to really push my levels of climbing here. Sometimes easing into things is better than trying to do something all at once. I learned the hard way, but it wont stop my passion for climbing difficult grades here, and trying some of the most classic and popular routes in the world. 

Arriving in Railay

RAILAY, Thailand // We got off the boat and trekked through knee high water to the beach. From here we walked about a quarter mile to the other side of the island where we had booked 3 nights accommodation in a nice place to get acclimated to Thailand.

It turned out to be a good choice. Although Hawaii is warm tropical climate, it was only around 80 degrees most of the time. The day we arrived in Thailand, it was 101 degrees fahrenheit, and just standing outside not doing anything for 5 minutes, you already started sweating. When we made it to the room, the air conditioning was a blessing. In Thailand, a room with A/C, warm water shower, and wifi are big luxuries. 

Railay is our first stop in Asia and there is so much to do here // rock climbing, hiking, kayaking. The climbing community, combined with all of the backpackers, make this place really fun. Railay is the nicer part of the area where there seem to be more families and more upscale lodging, which is good for us on our first few days here before we head over to Tonsai.

We plan on doing some easy climbing to test our gear and equipment before we attempt any harder advanced routes. It’s nice to have time, and no rush to leave. We can linger around and stay in places for as long as we want. At least until our Thai visa runs out in May. 

Long Days of Travel

BANGKOK, Thailand // Our journey to southern Thailand leaving from Hawaii:

• 8 hours, flight from Honolulu to Tokyo
• 6  hours, layover Tokyo Narita Airport
• 2 hours, flight Tokyo to Nagoya
• 4 hours, layover Nagoya Airport
• 6 hours, flight to Bangkok
• 1 hour, taxi to Don Mueang airport in Bangkok
• 4 hours, layover Bangkok Airport
• 1 hour, flight Bangkok to Krabi
• 30 minutes, bus to Ao Nang Pier
• 15 minutes, boat ride to Railay beach
• 15 minutes, walk to Railay East

We showed up in Thailand sleep deprived and in a zombie like delirious state. I felt like I was in a dream. The last day or two has been constant travel and required us to be focused and constantly on our "A game" as we like to call it. We had to go through customs and immigration not only upon entering Thailand, but also Japan, since we spent time there as well during our layovers. Filling out paperwork, navigating through airports, and keeping track of all of our stuff has been exhausting. 

Although not the quickest way to get to Thailand, I was really happy we went through Japan. We got Japan stamps in our passports now, and seeing the culture, eating the food, and wandering around the airports was really fun for me. Both Tokyo and Nagoya had huge observation decks where you can get food and go sit and watch the planes board and take off. We spent some time there also just to get fresh air and be outside.

We were both able to sleep on the majority of the flights, and there were no major incidents that stalled any of travels which we were very thankful for. In Nagoya, when we were checking in, they noticed that our flight was only one way. Because of no departing flight out of Thailand, we had to sign paperwork acknowledging this. Since there was free wifi in Nagoya, we decided to avoid any problems, just to book a cheap one way ticket to Cambodia just in case. In the end, I’m not really sure if this mattered or not. At immigration in Thailand, the guy looked at my passport for maybe 15 seconds, stamped it, and let me into the country. 

I think this will turn out to be a good choice in the long run. Our Thai visa expires in 30 days, and the ticket to Siem Reap (where we planned on going after Thailand anyway) was only 54 dollars. The timing will be right around when we need to leave Thailand, so we will see.

We took a taxi through Bangkok at 5 in morning and arrived at the other airport Don Mueang, which was packed. This is the final flight of the long journey to Krabi, which will lead us on to Railay and Tonsai where we plan on establishing as home base to rock climb and explore southern Thailand for the next few weeks. 

Global Economies

NARITA, Japan // I worked in finance. I know the buzz word // Global Economies. That's right we talked about it constantly but I have never seen it first hand until we hit Narita.

First impressions of Narita Airport outside Tokyo // clean, efficient, friendly, safe, not so foreign feeling. The first person I passed had a Marc Jacobs New York purse. Then NY Yankees hats were being sold in a shop and a baby was wearing a GAP shirt. Where was I again? Though a majority of people were speaking another language I felt like I was in Times Square.

In Bangkok I had a similar experience as we taxied between airports. All the signs had English on them and all the cars on the road looked familiar // Ford, Hyundai, and Toyota. The highways were newer than ones we drove in the US on our road trip and the taxi was cleaner.

At the Don Mueang airport we were greeted by a Burger King, KFC, and McDonalds trifecta all in a row. Starbucks and Subway sat on the other side of the walk way. 

Maybe its the years in NYC, the melting pot of the world, but being abroad doesn't feel that foreign to me. The global economies are real and they will impact our future more than we think.